Although the majority of the locals in the small valley of Pai are the Tai, an ethnic minority having slowly moved down from China to Thailand decades ago, there are a huge variety of hill tribes living in and around Pai. The Lisu is one of them. Like the Black La Hu, this tribe has their charm too.

The Lisu are known for their colourful dress. They make their clothing from bright cloth sawn into outfits trimmed with row upon row of varied coloured strips of cloth. The females wear dazzling clothes, consisting of a blue or green part-coloured tunic, knee length with the sides split up to the waist and a wide black belt, as well as blue or green pants. Sleeves, shoulders and cuffs are densely embroidered with narrow, horizontal bands in various colours. The people put on even flashier decoration in displays of their wealth such as the waistcoats and belts, intricately decorated with silver, as well as hats with multiple coloured pom-poms and streamers. The men’s outfits are plainer, with pink or yellow baggy pants and a blue jacket, opening vertically.

The tribe depends largely on agriculture and their farm produce like many other tribal people. They grow rice, corn and vegetables as subsistence crops and grow opium for sale. They draw additional income from the sale of farm animals such as pigs and cattle. They lead a very simple life, yet very well adapted to the fast changing world outside their community.

Now, to really get to know these locals and truly appreciate their different lifestyle, you do need to turn your back on your luxurious boutique hotel and delve into the lives of these people to really appreciate them and their culture. And of course, there are plenty of tour operators that offer you this up close and personal experience with the hill tribes. If you prefer to find out more about such opportunity ahead, email homestay@lisuhilltribe.com or just dive in and explore - you might find the experience even more rewarding and heartwarming than the services you get from your hotels.

Besides the panoramic view and a boutique escape from the bustling world behind the strong hold of Pai’s mountain ranges, the town offers an exciting and up-close personal experience with one of the northern hill tribes, the Black Lahu. This group of ethnic minorities lives at a high altitude, in a village called Baan Look Khao Lam in Pangmapha district, 45 minutes’ drive from Pai on the scenic route to Mae Hong Son. Many may as well recognize this tranquil village from a Thai film called “Rak Jang” (or Love you so… in English), as some of the scenes were shot there.

The Black Lahu are known for their sweet, timid charm and reserved down-to-earth lifestyle. The people are very kind and generous. Apart from their heart-warming nature, these people also wear the most distinctive costumes, especially the women. They wear black cloaks with diagonal cream stripes. The top of the sleeves is adorned in bright colours of red and yellow. The Black Lahu women are highly skilled in weaving, both on back-strap and foot-treadle looms. They are experts in producing delicate patchwork trips and unique embroidery work while their men are good at producing excellent crossbows, musical instruments and other items made from wood, bamboo and rattan.

The Black Lahu build their houses on high stilts with walls made from bamboo or wooden planks and with a grass thatched roof. They rely on their hunting and agricultural skills for food and income. Their cash-generating crops are melons, peppers, beans, yams, millet and other seasonal vegetables.

To truly appreciate all this you might want to leave the comfort of your luxurious hotel in Pai for a rough ride and crude stay with these hill tribe people and really get to know them. You, of course, have a choice of just travelling there yourself either by your private vehicle or public transportation or you can opt for tour package. These package tours can be fished out locally or booked online and from other major tourist destinations such as Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son.

Long before tourists from both Thailand and abroad flocked to this small valley, hidden well away from the materialistic and busy world, several groups of hill tribe people made Pai and the area around this town their home.

In the area around Pai, and along the scenic route linking Pai and Mae Hong Son, the Lesu, Lahu, Karen, as well as the local Shan people have settled and built up their communities. Many of them were born here; some have fled their home country, Burma, to seek refuge on Thai soil. With less exposure to the universal pop-culture and strong cultural background, many of these ethnic minorities remain true to their origin, faith, and traditional way of life. These villages offer a great insight and an intimate experience of the world of simplicity and a self-sufficient lifestyle that coexist with, yet in contrast to the modern advancing world driven by materialism.

Getting there is not difficult as many of these villages are easily accessible by road from Pai’s town. The famous Pangmapha Distric, which is home to the Lesu, Lahu, Karen and Lawa people, is only 45km away from Pai. This distance makes day trips from Pai and drop-ins on the way through stunning mountain scenery along the curvy road to Mae Hong Son the perfect excursion option for both those staying over in Pai and heading towards that direction. If driving is not your option, you can turn to local tour operators in town. There are a number of them that offer day trips to the hill tribe villages, combined with other attractions and activities on the way. All you need to do is shop around.

Staying over in Pai is not a problem either. There is a huge range of accommodation for you to choose from, be it luxurious boutique resorts, hip and cozy guesthouses or even small trendy hotels. Continuing your journey to Mae Hong Son and Chiang Mai is not that big a deal either for you can connect there by plane, car and bus. Buses and planes, connecting from Pai to both Mae Hong Son and Chiang Mai, operate on a daily basis. So, provided that you have time to shop around, leave enough room for adjustments or plan ahead, you’ll definitely find your visit to Pai and the near-by cities very rewarding.

The grass is always greener on the other side, so people say. This much may be true if you prefer to have something green in lush green scenery, totally hidden away from your frantic life. If having a nice shot of the new trendy drink made from wheatgrass amid nature in the valley of Pai and a cozy stay at the hotel of your choice make the experience sweeter than downing the same kind of drink at Siam Paragon or on Kao San Road, Pai is obviously a greener lawn for you!

Many view Pai as a boutique and hip tourist destination with a wide variety of activities to enjoy and many photogenic sites to see but not many see the other green side of Pai apart from the obvious! However, just as the organic and healthy food trends are gaining in popularity, the new good-for-health drink has reached Pai and has quickly become very popular especially with foreign tourists visiting this peaceful village.

A small shot of wheatgrass contains so many vitamins and rich nutrition found in various kinds of fruits and vegetables that it is regarded as the perfect potion for detoxification. The drink does not just cleanse your system from the health-damaging substances but also gives you a quick boost. This is why it is perfect for those whose energy has virtually been drained out by their daily stress.

So far, the one and only place in Pai that offers this potent rejuvenating bittersweet shot is The Sanctuary. Its owner, Khun Toy (Chawalrasya Panya) kindly recommends that those trying to drink for the first time may be put off by its strong grassy smell and bitterness, but once swallowed, a touch of sweetness lingers on.

The 80 baht price for a small portion of a drink may not seem cost-effective but the richness of the green wheatgrass, freshly picked from the shop’s nursery, topped with Pai’s greenery, really makes this healthy shot at The Sanctuary worth while.

“An army marches on its stomach”. You, however, deserve more than just food to satisfy your hunger and Pai offers just that with pristine view of unspoiled nature in the arms of Thongchai and Dan Lao mountains.

Besides the mouthwatering and huge variety of food selections on offer, there are also places in Pai where you can have a great meal with a view. Café Del Doi is one of them. The place is known for its authentic hill tribe cuisine that comes in a package with a panoramic view of the Pai valley and with trendy music in the background.

For those who prefer healthy options, Pai Lanna and Pai Na, are the two places where you can enjoy a good green meal amid refreshing scenery. Both places’ striking menus revolve around tofu varieties. Each place’s cooking, however, has a different touch and taste to it.

What’s more is that small exotic accommodation is available at all these places, but if a meal with a view is all you want, you can opt to stay at other boutique hotels or shop around for some hip looking guesthouses in town. So, stop drooling over these ideas and come out to try these delicious dishes for yourself!

Picturesque scenery and the locals’ laid-back lifestyle are certainly what Pai prides itself in, but these are not all you can enjoy when visiting this peaceful valley. Pampering yourself with rejuvenating spa treatments is also a possibility.

Within the valley of Pai, there are a number of natural hot mineral springs but the most easily accessible one for tourists is Tha Pai hot spring within the Huai Nam Dang National Park. There are four main hot spring ponds in the area, which are set amid dense forest. The average temperature in these ponds is 80 degrees Celsius. The mineral water from these resources snakes down the slope of the mountain, transforming the whole site into an attractive hot mineral spring stream. The hot stream of mineral water then meets with cold streams from other sources, making the temperature perfect for bathing. These are the spots where visitors can have a picnic by the side of the waterfall, either before or after a healthy bath. Besides bathing, mineral shower boxes, a camping area and restaurants are available within the same compound too in case anyone fancies lingering longer by the warm stream. To enjoy this mineral spa, Thai nationals are required to pay 40 Baht entrance fee.

Those expecting private bathing facilities for a large group are advised to try the ‘spa pool’ at Tha Pai Spa Resort. The pool shares the same mineral resources as that of the original natural hot spring bathing area in the national park. The Quarter also offers splendid spa packages although a natural mineral spring spa is not available there. However both places welcome walk-in clients and you are not obliged to stay at any of these places in order to make use of the services offered. So, you can pick a place that best suits your budget, be it a small, cozy, hip or boutique. Just bear in mind that here is a 50 Baht fee for the use of Tha Pai Spa Resort’s ‘spa pool’. For The Quarter’s the luxurious spa courses the price varies.

Mae Hongson’s artery, the river Pai, is bursting with energy again when the seasonal rain greets its origin, the two mountain ranges named Thanon Thongchai and Dan- Lao, with abundant amount of water. This creates the perfect condition for whitewater rafting of all levels of difficulties.

The 50-kilometre-long river, snaking through three different districts, including Pai itself, is packed with both adrenaline rushing experiences and scenic views along its whole stretch. Several dozens rapids en-route pose challenges ranging from level 1 up to level 5, or mild to extreme. Water games at the Su Sa waterfall, cave expeditions as well as mud-bathing and cliff diving are among many other highlights for adventure seekers to enjoy during their breaks from paddling.

It takes two days to complete the whole route, with an overnight stay in the jungle, allowing the crews to get back in touch with nature. However, there is a milder version for those who just fancy a taste of Pai’s excitement without losing their touch on the town’s boutique hotels.

Besides the two-day package, most tour operators also offer a one-day package, which gives a similar thrilling experience and at the same time allows you a good night sleep in a warm comfortable bed at the hotel of your choice. This way, whether you are luxurious holidaymakers or daredevil backpackers, Pai and her river can accommodate all your needs… even on the rainy day!

Note:  Rafting trips are available from local tour operator such as Pai Adventure:  Tel 053 699 385;

Mae Hongson Adventure:  Tel 0 5361 4286;  Pai in the Sky:  Tel  0 5369 8145,  0 5369 9090 

Further information on rafting in Pai and Mae Hongson is available from the local TAT’s office  via email at tatmhs@tat.or.th and on the phone at 053 612 982-3